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Thatbyinnyu Phaya Temple (built c. 1144)

Thatbyinnyu (or That-byin-nyu, “the Omniscient”) Phaya was one of King Sithu I’s (or Alaungsiyhu, r. 1113-1167) finest legacies to the Bagan region. Although there are no contemporary inscriptions that identify him as the builder, reliable chronicles from the 14th century affirm his role in its construction .

Located just inside the southeastern corner of the old city wall, Thatbyinnyu is Bagan’s tallest temple at almost 200 ft. (or 61 m.; some indicate 217 ft. or 66 m.) and represents a transition from the Mon period to a new architectural style that would soon be followed at the Sulamani, the Gawdawpalin and at Htilominlo. Constructed during one of the high points of Bagan political power and during a period of rededication to Theravada Buddhism and religious scholarship, it reflected that era’s innovative architectural and artistic creativity. Paul Strachan, the important Bagan scholar, calls Thatbyinnyu “an expression of the self-confident Burmese spirit of nationhood.”

Somewhat similar in style to the nearby Ananda Pahto, Thatbyinnyu is a brick masonry building covered in white stucco and with stone in pavements, thresholds and as reinforcing elements. The bricks, incidentally, average a hefty 16.4” x 8” x 2.5”. The temple is set on a platform that formerly was at the center of a walled enclosure (only the north gateway remains); the complex served also as a monastery and stupa, as well as a temple. The ground level square base is approximately 190 feet on each side. There are modest protrusions of about ten feet centered on the north, west and south sides and six entry points on each of these sides. The east side has a projected 24 ft. by 38 ft. entry hall. The exterior is a ‘play of cubes.’ There is a series of square receding terraces on both the lower (three terraces) and upper (four terraces) levels. At the corner of each of the terraces are stupa obelisks set on square bases. The elevated central core tower is 98.5 ft on each side. The “sikhara,” or tower is squat compared to earlier temples such as the Ananda, and thus reemphasizes the mass of building beneath it. Thatbyinnyu was never fully completed and, perhaps, never even consecrated; the Jataka set relating the life of the Buddha was never added. The terraces contain indentations for the planned series of over 500 ceramic plaques.

The interior, which unfortunately I was unable to enter because of some personal physical limitations, also has a unique character. There is a rich use of pointed arches in the spacious hallways and barrel vaults in other areas. The two tiers of windows in each level create a vibrant and light interior. Monks originally lived on the first two levels, and the major shrine was on the upper level. Consequently the inner stairway to the upper levels is prominent, rather than being hidden away as in other temples.

The heavy damage caused by the 1975 earthquake was mostly repaired by 1979, and the structure was further strengthened in the early 1990s. Formerly one of the best places to view the great archeological zone, the erosion of its bricks unfortunately has closed its upper terraces to the general public.

Bagan Monument Number 1597

Text by Robert D. Fiala