Photo Gallery

Nat Taung Kyaung Monastery (built 18th century)

Nat Taung Kyaung (or Nat-taung Monastery, also known at May-taung Taik), located in the vicinity of Taung-bi village and immediately to the north of the town walls of Old Bagan, sets in a secluded clearing amidst a wide variety of trees and vegetation. Although its date of founding is uncertain, it is probably the region’s oldest, as well as its finest, wooden monastery. Unfortunately, little on this sylvan jewel is readily available to the public in published form or on the web. Other than a short paragraph by Caroline Courtauld, it is not even mentioned in ordinary guidebooks. In some ways, of course, its anonymity may be beneficial to its residents. My local horsecart driver assured me that it was over 200 years old and called it the Leya Monastery. The age was confirmed by Sylvia Fraser-Lu in her delightful recent book on Buddhist wooden monasteries of Myanmar. In addition to a few of my personal observations, all information on this monastery is taken from her beautifully illustrated volume.

Unlike the far older brick, stone and stucco stupas and temples that have survived in the Bagan Archaeological Zone, Bagan monasteries, and those of Myanmar in general, were generally made of wood. While many of the ‘more permanent’ Bagan monuments indeed are in poor condition, it should be remembered they are more than 500 years older. Many of the wooden monasteries with architectural significance have disappeared over the centuries for a variety of reasons. Unlike the temples and stupas, which were sites of public veneration and worship, monasteries were places of residence for monks who had little or no income and were expected to accept their given conditions. Wealthy individuals had often built elaborate monasteries and enclaves as personal donations to earn merit along the road to Nirvana. But the maintenance and renovation of these buildings did not carry the same weight among their descendents who preferred to build their own new structures. Thus many fell into disrepair and decay. Also, while wooden structures were indeed less susceptible to the dangers of earthquakes (note the temples of Japan) such as the one that destroyed much of the Bagan Archaeological Zone in 1975, they had to confront other threats: fire, insects, rain and humidity and the intensity of the sun’s rays. Bagan is in Myanmar’s dry zone. Yet there can be, as I discovered in the spring of 2001, extremely sudden, frequent and heavy rains that can contribute toward the demise of wooden structures.

Although the Bagan monasteries are similar to others in Myanmar, they do have unique qualities. Wooden monasteries were usually built of teak--one of the most durable of woods because of its tight grain, exceptional strength and imperviousness to moisture—and the Burma padauk tree, a fine grained hardwood tree resistant to termite damage. The craftsmen used post and lintel construction with mortise and tendon joinery. The the multi-tiered and sloping tent-like roofing system known as ‘zei-ta-wun’ reveals an extraordinary design and creativity, while the conspicuous soaring ‘pyathat’ towers or spires constructed around a single tall posts with roofs of descending size are another important element at Nat Taung. Monastic buildings, and wooden houses in general, were usually set on wooden platforms that offered ventilation as well as some protection from snakes and a variety of other unwelcome and unsavory intruders. Such is the case at Nat Taung.

The Nat Taung complex actually contains two monasteries, numerous pyathats, pavilions, rest houses and ancillary buildings. The main monastery building, with an east-west orientation, is approximately 130 ft. x 115 ft. (40 m. x 35 m.). Most of its significant elements are from the pre-colonial Kon-baung period; some of the rooms apparently are later. Its glory and what should be a major claim to prominence lies in its numerous woodcarvings which are also mostly from the late Kon-baung period of the mid- to late 19th century.

There have been occasional efforts at refurbishment, but recently much of the moin monastery building has been undergoing careful restoration. Funds have reported come from abroad, while the Department of Archaeology has assumed responsibility for its maintenance at this time and has done much to restore its former glory with authenticity. The nearby wooden Taung-bi Monastery, for example, was even disassembled in an effort to provide craftsmen with familiarity with construction techniques that could be used in refurbishing other monasteries.

Today Nat Taung is a wonderful example of the craftsmen’s art, both of the past and the present. The restoration of the avian creatures in the roof decorations, the ‘a-saw’ flame-like decorations on the roof lines, the ‘du-yin’ prow-like roof ornamentation, the carvings on the bargeboards and the decorations of the balustrades reflect the attempt to restore and maintain authenticity. Additionally the installation of more traditionally styled staircases in place of the former massive western styled structures has added a significant traditional element. Nat Taung, however, is not just a museum piece to recreate the past; it is a living and working monastery, although I am not sure how many were living there at the time I was there.

My visit to Nat Taung in the occasionally driving rain was one of serenity and tranquility. Although the rainy and overcast weather detract from the quality of the photographic images presented here, it was a memorable visit to an enchanting site. I only regret not having seen Sylvia Fraser-Lu’s excellent but then not-yet-published volume before I visited Nat Taung located just north of Old Bagan.

Text by Robert D. Fiala, Concordia University, Nebraska