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Higashi-Hongan-ji - 東本願寺 (built 1602, rebuilt 1895 onward)

Higashi Honganji is an active temple with a colorful history. Unlike Kyoto's mountain temples, which are mostly Zen, Higashi belongs to the more popular Pure Land sect. The essence of Pure Land doctrine is that salvation is possible by chanting "praise to the Amida Buddha" in a wholly sincere manner. Because of its doctrinal simplicity, Pure Land Buddhism has been the most popular the faith among the common people since the thirteenth century.

Nowadays there are several pure land branches, one of which is headquartered in the nearby Nishi Honganji temple. This is not a coincidence. In the early seventeenth century the Pure Land faith was so strong that the newly established Shogun, Togukawa Ieyesu, feared its influence. In order to limit its power he aggravated a doctrinal split in the Pure Land faith by donating land for the Higashi Honmaru temple in 1602. The two Pure Land temples in close proximity to each other effectively meant there were two headquarters for a single faith, an unstable situation that resolved itself when Higashi broke away from the orthodox sect. As the split crystallized, Nishi became the capital of the established Pure Land Buddhism, while Higashi evolved as headquarters of the schismatic faith.

None of Higashi's buildings are original. The site has suffered innumerable fires and the present structures date from 1895. However, the reconstruction in the Meiji era has left a number of interesting tidbits. Because ordinary rope available at the time could not lift the heavy timbers during construction, women devotees donated their hair to make stronger ropes. These did the job. One of these hair-coils is on permanent display in the corridor connecting the two main halls. Though dulled by age, it remains an interesting aside.

A garden from the early days of Higashi is still in use just across the street to the east. Built for the 13th abbot Sennyo in 1641 at the Shogun's blessing, this urban garden is now open to the public. Even today it is possible to walk across all the little pathways and bridges connecting the gardens paths, a treat not allowed at most sites.