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This two-story farmhouse near Bumthang in eastern Bhutan is a good example of a typical dwelling of the Drukpa people (the majority ethnic group). Farmhouses typically sit in isolated valleys in small clusters called 'gung chim' that may consist of fewer than a dozen families. Often, the valley is overlooked by fortress-like 'dzong' that serves as both a monastery and as an outpost of the government. Just as the dzong combine religious and secular functions, so too do farmhouses. In most farmhouses, a Buddhist shrine is located on the topmost floor, and the ornamentation of the farmhouse may resemble the ornamentation of nearby religious buildings, with one exception: farmhouses are often decorated with penis symbols to promote fertility and ward off evil spirits.

Farmhouses are generally shaped like a rectangle. Their walls, made of dried mud, are typically painted white. On the lower level the walls are pierced by a few small windows and a nondescript door. Sometimes a chorten-like structure can be seen alongside the walls, dedicated to the spirit of the deity that owns the land. The upper floor(s) of the farmhouse are distinguished by elaborate woodwork that usually cantelevers beyond the walls. The shady area underneath may be used as a shelter for cleaning vegetables or as a toilet space.

The ground floor of the farmhouse is often a stable or animal pen. To reach the second floor one must ascend a narrow ladder shaped from a single piece of wood. The main living area of the house is the kitchen, which is a combination eating space, reception hall, and sleeping area. Cooking is done over a mud stove, which is the only source of heat in the winter. To conserve heat as much as possible, Bhutanese farmhouses typically lack chimneys, although a chimney-like wooden shaft conducts the worst of the smoke to the attic space, where it darkens the underside of the roof. Except for tables, there is rarely any furniture in the kitchen. To sleep, families will often lay out the day's clothes on the wooden floor and use them as blankets--an efficient way to save space.

The other important room of the house is the chosham, or private altar. It may be located next to the kitchen or on the floor above it. The chosham is a private Buddhist altar, elaborately decorated to resemble the interior of a temple.

Above, the attic spaces of the farmhouse are used as storage areas for vegetables and straw. The roof is made of wooden shingles stacked in place and weighted down by stones. To reach the outside of the roof, one may simply push away some shingles from below. On top of the roof is the family prayer flag which is replaced once a year. The prayer flag sends the family's prayers to the wind with every flutter.

Bibliography:

All images copyright 1994-present Galen R. Frysinger (these photographs taken 1994)

Karan, Pradyumna P. Bhutan: A Physical and Cultural Geography
  University of Kentucky Press, 1967. Lexington

Schicklgruber, Christian & Pommaret, Francoise. Bhutan: Mountain Fortress of the Gods
  Shambhala Publishers, 1998. Boston


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